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The sure identity of Bacco in Furore


Even among those counting thirty years or a little more, there are cooks with definite roots to the territory. Which means, then, not only a connection to tradition-and thus to products and seasons-but to that wisdom of memory that elevates every dish to myth, capable of expressing the imprint and history of a family.

Pietro Cuomo-instinctive sympathy, lots of politeness and lots of modesty in a world of chefs who are as sure of their brilliance-has origins that oscillate between three poles, all of which have great appeal: Gragnano, home of pasta, where he was born; Furore, on the Amalfi Coast, where he lives and works; and Castellammare di Stabia, on the Sorrento Riviera, where he studied at the well-known Scuola Alberghiera.

So Pietro after a work experience in the Veneto region (where the other side of seafood cuisine offered not a few insights to his research) returned to his homeland. That is, first "al Pirata," on the Praia beach, and then at "M'Ama" in Praiano alta, a restaurant of excellence, as well as a comfortable hotel, run by Andrea and Suela Ferraioli. That is, from that strain of Bacchus in Furore, where Peter Cuomo currently works.

"In fact, I went from one cuisine to the other, always within the same family, and this furthered my education, also on a cultural level. Because the Ferraioli have a sacred respect for the dishes of the past. Giving vent to research and imagination, it is always desirable, but without intervening - and especially distorting - those that have given luster and prestige to our cuisine."

Cuomo's convictions have found at Bacco's the ideal soil to grow, thanks in part to the great lesson of Donna Erminia, who has been at the House's stove for nearly half a century. Thus the cuisine of Abbot Corrado or the Duke of Bonvicino have found their ideal home here.

The "scammaro" (corruption of ex camera) omelet made with eggless pasta, or "alert" ziti, that is, upright, offer...

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